In a nonreactive medium heavy-bottomed saucepan, simmer shallots, wine, vinegar, salt and pepper over medium-high heat until reduced to about 1 tablespoon. Add water. Cook down to about 2 tablespoons.

If you want to start an argument at an international gathering of chefs, just mention saffron and then stand back. The opinions will flow unabated. During last fall’s Worlds of Flavor conference at ...